Trendspotting; Long pleated skirt

Pleated items for decades, before modern designers started to create wonders out of them were usually volume supporters. That’s why in those Flemish gowns usually the sections were pleated or on some marvelous gown pleats had role on the back, on the cloak or train.
On the other side of the volume crave, at the beginning of the century Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny started using pleated silk to create his famous tea gowns inspired with tapestries from East and ancient Greek tunics (with Isidora Duncan, Mrs Conde Nast as fans) Apart from sleek couture visions of freedom of female body with ancient origins, reserved for special socialites, in different fashion eras was immanent hunt for volume or structure, which often apart from petticoats implied pleats. At the beginning of 50s Dior used pleats to create fullness of New Look, and after all there was American-styled all-around pleated skirt, which was certain symbol for years. Usage of pleated finish on the fabrics increased in 70s with using of synthetic fibers that allowed fabrics to stay pleated after laundry process. Somewhere between the decades, trends, and different époques was shaped maxi fine pleated dress, plisse in various types, with the view to provide elongated figure. Chloe designer Hannah McGibbon with the last fall collection proved that the fall goddess with ancient spirit exists and with the slightly dropped hemline, chiffon and satin details is equally fragile in nude as in earth colors.

When recently spotted in my back-up storage four vintage floor-length pleated skirts, I was quite surprised and without an answer or excuse for not wearing them. I assume it was my idea back in the days of making bustier dresses out of them and the failure of the same when came issue of the silhouette. It is true that when modifying clothes, in manner top is a skirt-dress is a top- tee is a dress, becomes standard we certainly forget about wearing some items in the way they are suppose to be; pleated skirt as a skirt not as dress. Fine pleats are except they influence clothing with ancient history (My tendency for collecting Grecian inspired robe probably is related to my Mediterranean heritage) used in the form of drapery they make something romantic to woman body with charm of powerful femininity. Every muffle in fabric that easy adjust the body even if you are 5-year-old girl playing with curtains gives kind of feeling of female dignity. And every muffle in this kind of item for 80s obsessed society, certainly gives a feeling of body deliverance. Just try it.

Anja Rubik spotted by Jak and Jil's Tommy Ton wearing Chloe dress (not skirt)from fall collection

Last minute holiday gift guide

If Christmas shopping is a ritual, I believe in Santa little helpers- those that pick presents at least week before Christmas's Eve in small specialized or vintage shops. Gift as conventional present just in way of form is one thing that is on dislike list. Since very devoted to Retro ways of bestowal, I am rather for receiving something even cheap or made by person itself if its sincere and from heart rather than Hermes scarf if is bought just to be bought (not being Pinocchio)
But we all know how exhausting can be end of the year. Who anymore has time for buying unique? But anyway if we are shopping in that way, we have to think of wishes of beloved ones. And situation of buying presents with last minute, chaos and crowd, doesn’t have to be a bad movie scene, it certainly can have its own lure (particularly if are included snowflakes and hot coffee)
And buying present for fashionable girl, whether it is friend/girlfriend/sister/colleague/cousin, can be very agonizing. What this girl needs due to characteristic of fashionistas as very -I have it all- beings? Some of them (us) are very shopaholics with cured-rehab-tryin’ to make me go to rehab background stories. So what to buy to a girl that has it (almost) all?

Fashionista obsession #1 Books
Fashion people are not crazy only about book signings but collections on shelves. You are probably familiar about her literature so you will be informed about missing words/photos. List is tested and those following are rather flawless reads.
Direction----> Book store

Chanel Collections and Creations by Daniele Bott is visual and textual delight for all Chanel and Yves Saint Laurent Memoirs by Pierre Bergé( co-founder of YSL Couture House and lifelong Yves partner, for YSL fans.
The Thames & Hudson Dictionary of Fashion and Fashion Designers, Second Edition is by the words of Vogue fashion bible, and by misslikey more than fashion channel for every person in industry while Fashion encyclopedia with 150 years in fashion is The Fashion Book of Phaidon Press.
Madeleine Vionnet book is excellent mode to find more about one of the most important couturiers in fashion. Author is Betty Kirke, Foreword written by Issey Miyake.
Photography lovers would enjoy following;
Nick Knight Book - photography retrospective (from 1990 to present) with images picked by Nick himself. Avedon Fashion 1944-2000 as must have for the photography and Richard Avedon lovers.New publication characterized by every penny worth is Juergen Teller:Marc Jacobs Advertising 1998-2009.Famous Scott Schuman is finally in print- The Sartorialist is publication for all fashion bloggers and lovers of street style.
Helmut Newton Work in Taschen edition is summary of Newton work. And every lover of illustrations would look intently on Fashion Wonderland, summary of fashion illustrations.

Fashionista obsession #2; Lola and Lula
Direction ----->Perfumery, newsstand or bookstore

Lola is new fragrance of Marc Jacobs with our model Cheri Karlie Kloss and Juergen Teller, man that completely fits Marc philosophy. And absolutely every girl currently wants to be wrapped in cloud of fuchsia aroma.
Direction for Lola in purple mini hat box: Neiman Marcus
Lula magazine is one of our favorite publication and absolute source for quality photography so buy your friend of girlfriend new issue of Lula Mag (Karen Elson on cover)
photo via Lula Scrapbook

Fashionista obsession # 3 Nude and Breakfast at Tiffany’s
Directions-----> H&M, Topshop, fred flare store

Sleep mask with charming name Holly GoNightly is absolute celebration of one our favorite heroines, Holly aka Lula Mae ($14.00) If your fashionista doesn’t have time for sleep buy her/him Audrey Hepburn DVD collection.
From lingerie I picked from topshop those two splendid pieces of (under)wear – Nude satin bralet ($50.00) and Scalloped lace body ($50.00), and from H&M there is Sonia Rykiel’s luxurious kimono with black satin lapels(consider yourself lucky if you manage to come across this piece)

Fashionista obsession # 4 Sartorialist View of the World
Directions-----> Antique shop, Oak, American Apparel

Polaroid Camera- Every fashionista, from Rachel Zoe to anonymous fashion craver is obsessed with Polaroids. So if you are familiar with antique shops around you, you will never make a mistake with buying Polaroid camera- girl can never get enough of polaroids.
Cheap shades- Only God knows how many of lovely and cheap sunglasses we have and how many more we will get!
If your fashionista is crazy about rounded shades get her/him Tortoise Sunglasses by American Apparel ($30.00) or brown spitfire glasses from Oaknyc ($46.00)

Fashionista obsession # 5 Refined eyes and ears
Directions------> audio-video shop, Urban Outfitters

Every conscious girl is aware of how big influence is Jimi Hendrix’s heritage on today’s fashion and trends and she is enthusiastic about LP’s so The Jimi Hendrix Experience - Are You Experienced? double LP can be very idea for the gift.(available at Urban Outfitters) She has the same opinion about Grunge culture so she would enjoy reading Grunge by Michael Lavine & Thurston Moore from Urban Outfitters book store.
If they are rock'n'roll in heart Bob Dylan’s Christmas in The Heart album is great warmer for festive spirit. Great idea for a gift since is must see and great reminisce of supermodels, is documentary called catwalk, directed by Robert Leacock with all totally important persons featured there, (just to name a few) as Linda, Naomi, Alaïa, Grace Coddington, Lady Amanda Harlech, Galliano, Gaultier

Fashionista obsession # 6 Eternal storage
Directions----> Urban Outfitters, Debenhams (if in UK), Oasis

Jewelry is one of the most important things so it’s always very essential for these kind of girls that pieces don’t tangle- that’s why at Urban Outfitters came to idea of jewelry stands with look a like of bird cage which is totally lovely ($32.00).
We love to store our rings in metal boxes like this with butterflies & florals from Debenhams (15GBP). Another storage gift is Oasis case, which is absolutely lovely and very vintage charming. (50GBP)

Fashionista obsession # 7 Sometimes very practical
Direction------> Oak store, Opening Ceremony store
Gift guide is closed with this practical and useful black army canvas bag from Oak ($45.00) and the item that every of us considers as totally essential since we know there are never enough of stretching high-wasted skirts (this one is available at Opening Ceremony store for $39.00


p.s. Now don't e-mail this list to your friends, boyfriends, parents. Or you can ;)

Pursuit of sweater

When we talk about seasonal types, weather and favorites I must say winter is certainly not one of mine prefers. I like to consider myself as early spring (autumn) type, and that might be just because I don’t know how to dress appropriate in winter. Every time I go out of “warm baby its cold outside” inside,I return very frozen and with headache. Is really the term of fashionista statement for a victim?
Or maybe is true what some are tattling around- that people that live inside of fashion don't know how to dress proper?
The case of my closet is one season,In not meaning of throwing away after one season (oh gosh that is harsh), more of inability of distinguishing summer from winter clothes (that is way too cruel if you ask me. That is what makes my mother style very different from one I have, but in the same time is creating those frozen moments of which she if sees me would suffer hearth-don’t try to save me this time-attack. But I sincerely, don’t have much of idea how to match fur coat or heavy winter coat on boots. That’s why canvas on fur, ballerina flops or oxfords on coats, is what I wear the most. I can hardly imagine wearing boots in winter (only person that comes to my mind looking gracious in combination is Carine Roitfeld), or not buying summer dresses in winter.
Last week in my obsessive compulsive behavior inspired by Margot when I was smoking while having a bath or doing my nails, I wore long plaid dresses on faux fur coat. This week I am not feeling The Royal Tenenbaums any more, I just want to feel warm. But I am not finding any of that kind of items in my doors to Narnia.
All of my knitted vests are cardigans, long, cut or oversized, and they are not woolen but cottoned. Woolen dresses are all short sleeved, and they match silk blouses and white cotton shirts. There is sign of warm woolen sweaters in my backup places, but since they are very itching factor, I doubt they’ll ever look up the daylight. It’s normal that in inspirations-less moments in layered clothing behavior, girl at least needs three decent warm pieces of clothes. Not three layers of spring shirts. And on fall runaway, seems that it was only Marc Jacobs ( Missoni is exception) that didn’t want for us to catch a cold.

“Definitely I need more warm clothes”, announces she and thinks thrilled about Monday when she will finally go shopping. And this year in pursuit of sweater she will forget about fair, isle patterns and Marc Darcy’s Christmas sweater as inspiration and won’t get carried away with festive spirit, she is determined. Rather something very fine and bonnie. And wearable after Christmas.
So she makes her To Decide List
Phillip Lim gray cardigan, is not real sweater, but with peach ribbons is like first crush, not woolen but combination of cotton and polyester seems to have bit richer knit. Little disadvantage is dry cleaning. Chloe Sevigny for Opening Ceremony leopard unisex pullover except of softness by woven angora seems wearable on boots (never know)
Knitted cardigan with the look of real sweater in cobalt color with black polka dots as celebration (once again) of Minnie, is a little shorter but black chemise would take care of that.(80s purple)
Flowers in winter are heart melting. Floral cardigan is absolute favorite but sweater also, especially if is like this one with flower apps from nasty gal (who would say Roseanne and other 80-90s sitcoms stars would become icons?). One more angora lovely is coming from vintage nasty gal, this time in ivory very snow flake look with floral patch in front. Luella’s cashmere is always very hardly irresistible with its luxury glance so also ends up on thinking list (cashmere is not just warm cause of word cash in it). Of course topshop's charming sweaters are on audition.



But today, she will wear high wasted skirt on tights with over-knee socks. Black all over. On top she transforms topshop dress with flower applications into short sleeved top. She chooses cardigan and sandy-beige cape over the fur. "Its cold out there, would I go for boots (maybe lace-up) rather", she asks the mirror? "No, its casual weekend getaway", she says and puts beloved black canvas on her feet. Except they are totally cozy, they are transparent- and reminder of her luck in sale catches. “Snow storm is not totally big as I thought”, she utters while enters car. And her friends are once again totally tripping with annoying “who wears skirt on snow “exposition. When will they stop grumbling?!

first photo via totally addicting TURNED OUT

Holiday Accessories Report

A Woman's Right to Shoes

Miu Miu shoes are always on our wish list and this nude pumps with ankle strap are already crush of one of our faves iconic girls, Giovanna Bataglia, while chic chocolate crush comes from Proenza Schouler. Who can resist Proenza’s this season wooden platforms? Wedges this year came back with style, and Acne wedges you can either love or hate. No matter of your feelings toward them they deserved IT status in blogosphere. This love it’s on with Alexa Chung. And Rumi Neeley.
Still there is nothing sophisticated and classic enough like good old Mary Jane's. Since are holidays right time to be glossy on right place, why wouldn’t Mary Jane be metallic(Rupert Sanderson)
Last crush is absolute lace up booties tidbit from Korean Pastar, in suede leather with gold buttons (Louboutin inspired)

Satchel is oversized clutch

Designer houses are bit short of oversized clutches so we decided to transform our satchels into the clutch (remember Tolula Adeyemi and her orange satchel/clutch love). Since we did that practical thing, we are ready to run from school (office) to party in-a-minute.
Obsessions are Boyy model Slash (discovered Boyy through Dream Sequins, one of the dearest fashionista bloggers), Proenza Schouler’s PS1 inspired by classical satchel, this year irresistible in purple suede. Same feelings are toward Farrow, oversized clutch in cognac rustic leather from Hayden-Harnett

Take a Bow

Long time we’ve been very obsessed with hair decorating. It’s probably because we want of our little heads to be very prominent. That’s why we had flowers, birds, LV bunny ears on them, and even mingling as a Minnie’s with mouse ears (just take a look at Chanel Iman in Vogue Germany editorial)
Current obsessions of evoking childhood memories, except our sweetest Tavi, are bow headbands. We heart Natasha Poly in Vogue Paris editorial (Givenchy headband) and the most stylish twins after Olsens, Caroline & Alice Rausch (photo via refinery29)
Will you choose big (Promod) or small (Juicy Couture) bow or you will attach one on the top of your chignon?

Sprinkle little stardust with the finest pieces of jewelry

Vintage medallions are obsession of art and fashion lovers, and we find irresistible those on the chains (Vintage Carnelian Cameo Locket Necklace)
We loved stars on tees now we put them on our ears (Kenneth Jay Lane's gold plated stud clip-on earrings). But still, we adore vintage earrings(Rachel Leigh’s Vintage Crystal Drops ). And lot of rings, especially when we wear them all together (oval peach Moonstone ring, Sheila Fajl ring with etched lettering, John Hardy 'Dot' ring) We don’t have to mention what we feel about nice, elegant detail bracelets in black and gold blend (Marni)

Last but not less important

Oh how we loved sheer tights with little polka dots that we saw on Balenciaga this fall (hat inspired lot of retail stores like oasis). If you are classic I strongly recommend Accessorize UK tights. Faux Fur scarves always mellow my heart; they take me back on Portobello Road in my imagination)- we picked black faux fur with satin bow from Debenhams and Eskell faux fur scarf from refinery29shop.
And gloves (Gaga, ooh la la) we don’t need to mention because we know how those beauties spice things up; Phillip Lim's short studded black leather gloves, ModCloth sheer gloves with black polka dots

#1 Party dress report...DIY

Misslikey calendar
There are rumors that some glam girls are waiting whole year for Christmas holidays to shine up and be absolutely irresistible in holiday season.
Whether you’re not that passionate fashy from that block, there is still tiny part of us that is really looking forward for the sparkle of holiday. With all the glossy magazines, party reports with holiday shopping lists, even the most stubborn of us are allured.
And if you are wondering what to wear, misslikey decided that this year December Issue will be dedicated to holidays.
Since this year the whole DIY thing trend went far away first report regarding party dresses is idea for dress that you can make by yourself. If you are not big fan of DIY, this month here will be shown lot of inspirational goodies (party dresses, accessories, shopping reports and those on the budget)so make sure you mark misslikey on your holiday calendar.

How we going to make our DIY party dress:
DIY #1


My inspiration for holiday dress is Marc Bouwer dress that Zoë Lund wore for Manhattan Mag photo shoot back in 1985. Since I couldn't find similar dress in stores (only mini versions have detailed shoulders) I made myself ready to DIY. This dress has luxurious 70s cut but with eighties detailed shoulders I decided I'll say goodbye to eighties with style.

WHAT WE NEED
1. One free afternoon of creativity
2. Nice melody on the radio (recommendations- "Je t'aime... moi non plus" and Dinah Washington joints)
3. Simple long sleeved maxi black dress (in cheap version). Find one on eBay, in charity shop or cheap retail store. For easier handling with materials and chic outcome, recommendation is velvet, elastic cotton or jersey fabric.
4. 1 or 2 pack of studs (you choose-pyramid, dome or spikes) or sequins
5. Tailor chalk for marking
6. Needle and black thread if you will use sequins
Iron your dress. First try it in front of the mirror and with tailor chalk mark where you'll make your sequined or studded shoulders. Take it off and put it on table to be more precise. Pin the studs on marked area (or paste- consult in the place where you’ll buy them),If you are using sequins you'll need to sew them.


DIY #2
For those sick of eighties with the same kind of dress but with round lace cutout on the back

WHAT WE NEED
1. again attitude
2. again l
ong black dress.
3. lace (1 meter)
4. tailor chalk
5. scissors, needle and thread
First ask someone to assist you to (to hold your dress so it can be lined). Once again, with chalk mark the shape of your cutout and with scissors cut out the fabric. Then turn the fabric and on inner side sew your lace (be careful with edges and when you are buying lace ask for one that won’t shrink)


p.s. DIY is not because of recession(misslikey doesn't believe in words that are starting with R letter)- its because of creativity. So enjoy and be proud of yourself! You just made a dress and even you are not couturier you are member of my couture. And if you meet someone wearing the same dress buy her drink and remember of misslikey

photos of Zoe Lund via zoelund.com

On Aura Tout Vu

With the name that in French means you think you’ve seen it all seems that On Aura Tout Vu used good old fashion lawn of nonentity of enough and unveiled what they have to show. Approximately fifteen-year-old French fashion house was first creator- provider of garments for couture and ready to wear houses on relation Givenchy-Galliano and few others, before they started creating their own collections as also collaborations (including Chopard). They debuted with haute couture shows in 2002, as invited members of Federation francaise de la couture. Apart from couture,rest of collections are not any less haute; ready to wear, accessories (my left wrist is absolutely crying for their bracelets) and various lines of products such as for home, offices to high-tech goodies. If they thought of geeks obsessed with jewels on their computer boo-boos in very out of the ordinary way, with things like smoker accessory they enchanted and in the same time made regular smoker as me sad, because their bejeweled cigarette box makes pack of my fav smokes so ashamed that even I cannot look at them anymore. I won’t mention my ashtray and what On aura tout vu did to it (not that we are promoting smoking here on misslikey- bad, very very bad thing)

When you see all this kind of goodies under the same name, you become suspicious about it- that is chronic after-after effect of all those infant prodigies characterized by volume of avocations in the same line(don’t expect I am mean and don’t think of relationship LiLo-Ungaro)
Questioning about it? Of course you do- how is possible-where are they getting ideas-how many designers these people have, and you close it with very very strange! Realized that in fact is not so bizarre, when I dig a bit- Maison is trinity of people with background in jewelry, graphic design and fashion. Impact of those versatile contributions is very visible in their designs. Every time you see this kind of synergy in a world of fashion, you have to recognize something excellent is coming out of it. Synergists pay very attention on details, which is sometimes elementary key to everything.
And On aura tout vu surely has a very developed sense for detailing, fabrics as products. Seams that except great creativity and ideas, everything is planned very well, so even foliage attached on the gown, is thickened in translucent material like foil.
Foret enchante, last collection, part of Paris Couture Accessories was celebration of nature, very vision of romantic, happy magical garden with all the elements of same; trees(attached to dresses, as bang handles, brushwood around models hands), feathers and bird songs as background melody. If it is display of secret world that popped out from pages of old fairy-tale, models are not the little flying beards, they are delightful dryads.
What I felt from On Aura Tout Vu except proper tailoring and sense for society is great dose of alternative, big independence in design which is hard to have in fashion maison nowadays, with lot of freedom in artistic creation, everything sprinkled with magic dust.
On aura tout vu, as they tattled on their web (which won my award for best internet along with Hermès), certainly loves to distort fashion and glam. And yes we haven’t seen it all until we saw On aura tout vu.


photos via; Reuters, telegraph, daylife, oatv facebook group