If main characteristic of haute couture is its uniqueness, than Stéphane Rolland as 11th. Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, justified his membership.
Stéphane Rolland launched his couture Maison, that has been financially supported by just two shareholders, in 2007. Before love in his own couture, was a creative director at Balenciaga, has launched prêt-a-porter collection, and worked in Jean-Louis Scherrer house on womenswear and couture.
At Palais de la Découverte, this year in July, first time as official couturier Rolland presented 40 Haute creations together with leather goods for fall/winter 2009. What inspires this Parisian couturier mostly is art; contemporary, modern, architecture or sculpture, and that really is big influence on his designs. Inspiration for graphic mosaic embroidery from this show came from the wall of one New York apartment. Silhouettes of Rolland’s dresses really look like sculptures enliven that had un-notable walked out from some museum retrospective to runaway.
Except mosaic embroidery sign of last collection were rounded, sometimes bit asymmetrical cutouts (enchanted especially with cutouts on the back). Through whole collection, Stéphane plays with openness of the woman’s body parts.
Train dress is rich and despite big shoulders with bateau neckline, on the back will have little cutout that balances with silhouette. If it’s one sleeved, that sleeve will be pleated and bit avant-garde. He put sheer details on the back on long velvet dress with power shoulders and mosaic details all over. Long tailored blazer with details on the shoulders is paired on the runway with long dress and I can clearly imagine high class socialite on art exhibition in front of Monet's painting. Stéphane made me to fall in love with his long -floor touching-dresses and with one of those, in white, he closed his show, while other models in black dresses where aligned on stairs of Palace. That image clearly portrays Rolland’s art obsession.
Maybe the idea of timeless is reason of lots of diamonds embroidered in fabrics like cashmere, beige camel, gazar, crepe and jersey.
He also showed bags which varied from day bags to evening clutches (22-karat gold metalwork and diamond-encrusted closures) with prices from €10,000 and higher, depending on client specifications. And we say yes to Rolland same as we said yes when we saw Rihanna in Rolland’s ivory satin mermaid gown at Glamour’s woman of the year.
images via LE FIGARO
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