Pleated items for decades, before modern designers started to create wonders out of them were usually volume supporters. That’s why in those Flemish gowns usually the sections were pleated or on some marvelous gown pleats had role on the back, on the cloak or train.
On the other side of the volume crave, at the beginning of the century Spanish designer Mariano Fortuny started using pleated silk to create his famous tea gowns inspired with tapestries from East and ancient Greek tunics (with Isidora Duncan, Mrs Conde Nast as fans) Apart from sleek couture visions of freedom of female body with ancient origins, reserved for special socialites, in different fashion eras was immanent hunt for volume or structure, which often apart from petticoats implied pleats. At the beginning of 50s Dior used pleats to create fullness of New Look, and after all there was American-styled all-around pleated skirt, which was certain symbol for years. Usage of pleated finish on the fabrics increased in 70s with using of synthetic fibers that allowed fabrics to stay pleated after laundry process. Somewhere between the decades, trends, and different époques was shaped maxi fine pleated dress, plisse in various types, with the view to provide elongated figure. Chloe designer Hannah McGibbon with the last fall collection proved that the fall goddess with ancient spirit exists and with the slightly dropped hemline, chiffon and satin details is equally fragile in nude as in earth colors.
When recently spotted in my back-up storage four vintage floor-length pleated skirts, I was quite surprised and without an answer or excuse for not wearing them. I assume it was my idea back in the days of making bustier dresses out of them and the failure of the same when came issue of the silhouette. It is true that when modifying clothes, in manner top is a skirt-dress is a top- tee is a dress, becomes standard we certainly forget about wearing some items in the way they are suppose to be; pleated skirt as a skirt not as dress. Fine pleats are except they influence clothing with ancient history (My tendency for collecting Grecian inspired robe probably is related to my Mediterranean heritage) used in the form of drapery they make something romantic to woman body with charm of powerful femininity. Every muffle in fabric that easy adjust the body even if you are 5-year-old girl playing with curtains gives kind of feeling of female dignity. And every muffle in this kind of item for 80s obsessed society, certainly gives a feeling of body deliverance. Just try it.
Anja Rubik spotted by Jak and Jil's Tommy Ton wearing Chloe dress (not skirt)from fall collection