16 February 2010
New York Fashion Week fall 2010 part II- Are we becoming vagabonds?
Talking runaway; girl is on the road again. Obvious 1960s and 1970s vibe proves that Nico, Mariane Faitfull, Anita Pallenberg & co are never forgotten.( on 1990s are reminiscing Wang and his friend Joseph Altuzarra)
Long dresses this year are stars; Adam is about long skirt and oversized sweater, Peter Som put up green tulle, Philosophy put it in a military theme, Erin Fetherston for the night sleek, Altuzzara has a huge cape/train dress in red -velvet. Well velvet wasn't just popular in Altuzzara, but in Alexander Wang, Betsey, Elise Overland, Erin Fetherston, Karen Walker, United Bamboo and Rachel Roy shows. Believe it or not, we will be what's left from hippies and wear pants suit made of velvet next year. Except pantsuit that are velvet there is a quite of line of those pants I call sweat pants meet trousers (Araks, Luca Luca), or with inserted colored detail on the side (Ohne Titel, Prabal Gurung). The best tailored pants are undoubtedly those from Thakoon.
Erin Fetherston inspired by Chelsea girl Nico, made a wonderful complete collection showing us the bright side of Nico. Karen Walker, which continues in her cognizable tone of relax, loose clothing unlike last year when with tweed now is playing with some other materials. And Rebecca Taylor, I mean Rebecca Taylor even with keeping it short evoked Paris meets New York in seventies moments. Bows on the blue shoes- how terrible chic on the pants and blouse? And Peter Som gave us real fiesta of luxury fabrics and flamboyant prints with seventies vibe (models had black lipstick)
Another charming collection is from Peter Jensen which recalls on the childhood Sundays when mum is suppose to fix you up, shine up your shoes, lace them up and prepare you for the life. Add to that croco bag and in one moment you are teacher and in another charming Lolita. And don't forget to wear visible socks. Which certain have special appeal this year on fashion week. If not socks (on the heels or men shoes) there are "trouser leg" shoes (boots)
In line with ladylike, romanticism and Bohemian, coats are capes often in beige. Fur coats are huge and not too long while shearling jacket is included still in few collections.
And what else is new?
Young label Suno's (at O.C) eclectic prints and Betsey performance. Betsey show is always show in true meaning of the word so she brought us boudoir, miss Ozbourne, vagabonds and tribute to Alexander McQueen. Betsy can evoke in us hidden wish of leaving home and start living in fun fairs. If only Bob Dylan is there I would first put my name on the list.
Apparently I am full of kudos for New York, collections are much more complete and transparent, styling and details are great. Even Victoria Beckham is a proper tailor, but please couldn't she find any less skinnier models in the town?!