Emma Fletcher is super-talented designer and currently creative director at Tocca. Most of the pretty-clothes-seekers remember Emma as the brain behind super-lovely Lyell. Today, behind Emma are two successful collections for Tocca, loved both by critic and shoppers. The new spring 2012 ready-to-wear collection is all about prettiness, but also is very practical. Scalloped edges, lace details and crochet embellish these lovely pieces created for upcoming warm days.
I talked to Emma about new collection, Tocca and of course inevitable Lyell...
You are in Tocca for last two seasons, and the company didn’t have RTW line before you came so can you tell us a story about how collaboration happened?
Tocca is a big beauty business, selling across the world. They started clothes in 1994 but they had been fazed out. So essentially it was a re-launch. The owner and I met and instantly hit it off. We both saw the precession of the line and wanted to work together to transform TOCCA RTW in a new sophisticated collection.
I wrote on my blog that you left us broken-hearted when you decided to close the chapter of Lyell? How did you feel at the time? Was it hard decision?
It felt right. I felt like moving on. I am a big believer of jumping off the cliff so that the next chapter will come. I think it would have been harder at a different time because Lyell was my life with no separation. But I had just had a baby a month before and the lease had run out on the store and it just was automatic. I was relieved in a certain way too. Freedom from it. It was an intense 7 years. I was surprised at the response I got when I closed because you think you’re on your own when you work intensely. There was no regret. Tocca is a progression.
My impression of Lyell girl was the girl that possessed sensuality of 1930s, frisky vibe of roaring twenties and was enough interesting and refined to get a role in French 1960s film. How different or maybe the same is Tocca’s girl?
Nice description of Lyell girl - I like the frisky part. Tocca girl is clean, modern, sophisticated. It's stripped down, less frills, less fuss, more edge. But still oozes feminine sexuality. Still frisky.
I’ve read somewhere that you don’t sketch or sew. Is it hard to pass on your ideas and visions to your team?
I am not trained, I never sketched but now do bad drawings, which helps me more than anything. Yoko, our pattern maker is basically all the talent and knows now how to interpret my ideas. We have worked together about 5 years now.
Who is person behind once Lyell now Tocca wallpapers/ collages?
ME, I started doing it to use other photos that were edited out of shoot and now I am an obsessed collager.
Where are Tocca collections manufactured?
All the hand knits are produced in Peru and Bolivia and the ready to wear is sampled in NY and production is made in China. The industry in NY just does not exist anymore. China has surpassed the quality.
Where do you get inspiration from for your collections?
Photography, drawings, nature at the moment for prints.
Did you have anyone in mind when you created spring collection, or it was just a practical and full collection for classy girl in the springtime?
Now that I have done another collection in between it's hard to remember. I think of the girl as Jasmine now, the British model we used. I do know I started out thinking about envelope shapes. It is a practical collection, wearable knits etc.
Your selection of fabrics is very refined and you have interesting affair with lace. Why lace?
I love lace. I am using it in a different way at Tocca. A very strong, graphic, unfussy way. It makes so much sense to me, have those transparent shapes.
Details come at the end of designing process or do you immediately know what you want to achieve?
At the beginning mostly, but no I do not always know what I want to achieve, sometimes things evolve.
Your favorite piece from the spring line?
Print shorts and matching blouse, blush and black organza dress and crochet pieces..
What does girl need in her spring closet?
SHORTS, and scalloped handbag.
What are you wearing this spring?
Sleeveless scallop top, and I hope this summer rouch butt bathing suit!
A day with Emma Fletcher would look like….
It's not pretty, I don't know if I should describe.... wake up with a baby on me, take my son to school, get to work....
PHOTOS IN COLLAGES PROPERTY OF TOCCA/ EMMA FLETCHER
THANKS TO EMMA, TOCCA AND ALEXIS FROM LEXAMEDIA
For misslikey readers there's a 15% discount code (SPRINGINTOCCA) on the new spring collection at Tocca online store