Showing posts with label tuxedo look. Show all posts
Showing posts with label tuxedo look. Show all posts

02 March 2010

Who's that girl: Anastasia Barbieri

On first you might mistake Anatasia Barbieri for movie star from the seventies; natural beauty with brown, silky hair below the shoulder, perfect face contours and Annie Hall meets Lauren Hutton in Paris style. Though she could be a movie star, she is one of the Carine's girls; part of the enormously talented clique of infants which every month allure us with cognizable style on the French Vogue paper. Well, we all know that Vogue Paris paper smells different and that Carine girls are all very pretty. Barbieri also, with the superb eye for the fashion. In the past years she had built envious portfolio as stylist; she is Vogue Paris mode editor also as fashion editor-in-chief in Vogue Hommes International. She contributes in Vogue Nippon, Korean and German Vogue, V Magazine, Harper's Baazar, Ten and many others...back in the days she also did styling work for Dutch Magazine.You must had spotted some of the admirable editorials she styled in (thank you Lord) politically incorrect Paris Vogue. No matter if she is dressing up the Femme Fatale or Countryside Girl they both have a dose of strong, sophisticated sexiness and mysterious romance. While even most flaring outfits have a frail and loose vibe (see Cherchez La Femme Diane K,The Princess Diary, Furry Friend or White Russian in Vogue Nippon, 30 avenue de Montaigne) in styling men editorials she plays with macho on some new level (see Rose Foudre in Vogue Hommes International).
 In fact you can feel how both masculine and feminine are influence on each other in her work.
Besides editorial work, she does consultancy for many fashion house and styles ad campaigns (for Alessandro Dell'Acqua, Givenchy, D&G, Costume National, Kenzo, Cacharel).
Taking part in LENY Project by Mariela Gamboa and with work on NOIR, Danish fashion clothing line with conscience as consulting stylist along with photographer Marc Hom, proves that Anastasia except talent has awareness and sense. And her style: that's a subject for itself. And subject spotted by many street style blogs like Garance or Sartorialist. She seems to adore suits with made to measure glance but she stays very casual. Like in her work she balances items like very power pantsuit or even formal three-piece suit in very fragile , feminine way. Sometimes she breaks masculinity with elegant heels or ballet pumps, blouse or silk scarf. And sometimes is just her lovely face and hair.
Except adorned by street style snappers- she and Giovanna Battaglia look so good together on common photos- maybe cause Barbieri is raised in Italy (she was born in Croatia), recently Meredith Melling Burke in Vogue.com Most Wanted made a feature about Anastasia's tailored menswear look. Oh Boy. Let's say if somebody is supposed to learn us how to wear tuxedo I am very glad that person is Anastasia.


I-D magazine editorial which she styled and modeled for

images via style.com, garancedore, sartorialist, I-D magazine editorial scanned by BerlinRocks on TFS

23 October 2009

Rebirth of tuxedo

For years I used to be very suspicious on the subject of tough power-clothing or man cuts. Especially when you are younger there is some settled society chase for femininity, and you do effort just to avoid tough glance. Luckily for us things have changed. Do you reminisce of pant-less eras on the catwalk few years ago? Designers obviously seemed to forget how we have to go to work and actually wear pants. Except those from who we were expecting trousers like YSL or Lang, there wasn’t really some major buzz about the pants. Bad recession time seems that prompted detailed luxurious clothes, on one side and on the other, the basics. And they did work hard and bring to us all kind of suits including trouser pants for the fall season. And often, jacket or pants are in recognizable tuxedo style. Suit that contains good tailored trousers and blazer jacket still is reverberating powerful clothing but has softness that makes it very wearable. Pair of stilettos, length or wideness of the pants, materials or details (think of satin lapels on Balmain suits); they are all put up to improve gentle side of men's suit.
During the years I've always had an excuse for not wearing tuxedo suit; It's not really Le Smoking couturiered by Yves Saint Laurent and I don't own really starched white blouson. That was my very personal and vivid vision of evening tuxedo suit and glass of champagne in very old school way. Then I caught myself wearing recently harem pants with tuxedo blazer and black skinnies on same blazer and my past theory fell apart.
From what's seen on the runaway and that offered in the shops you can really put up your suit with the different parts to create the tuxedo or smoking style. Sometimes you are for cropped blazer and very wide length trousers. Sometimes you may feel you need stitch into your skinny's pants and long blazer to make a nice tuxedo combination. The way you put it together can make it further than just an evening outfit.
For the daily style or work, formality can be dissolved by bracing long blazer with thin belt like Donna Karan does. Hannah McGibbon with the softness of fabric and color makes very splendid suits(especially See by Chloe formal tuxedo jackets). Zac Posen creates sexy formality by bringing tighter pants and V neck blazers. Phoebe Philo proved once again her designer abilities debuting for Celine resort with tuxedo jackets made of tender, flexible fabric with the collar in different color. More Masculinity can be achieved with strong shoulders and leather pants, and if you are more into the warmer dandy English looks take a peak into the Ralph Lauren collection. Anna Sui for those unfamiliar with any kind of trousers suggest jeans on classic frock jacket.
For the evening wear silk blouse on wide leg tuxedo trousers (Currently hot cropped above the ankle) and have the glass of champagne. Very Katherine Hepburn.
Girls and they various tuxedo solutions



First four photos of Vogue France street style, image of Freja via nymag, Annabelle Dexter Jones and Liya Kebede via zimbio