23 October 2009

Rebirth of tuxedo

For years I used to be very suspicious on the subject of tough power-clothing or man cuts. Especially when you are younger there is some settled society chase for femininity, and you do effort just to avoid tough glance. Luckily for us things have changed. Do you reminisce of pant-less eras on the catwalk few years ago? Designers obviously seemed to forget how we have to go to work and actually wear pants. Except those from who we were expecting trousers like YSL or Lang, there wasn’t really some major buzz about the pants. Bad recession time seems that prompted detailed luxurious clothes, on one side and on the other, the basics. And they did work hard and bring to us all kind of suits including trouser pants for the fall season. And often, jacket or pants are in recognizable tuxedo style. Suit that contains good tailored trousers and blazer jacket still is reverberating powerful clothing but has softness that makes it very wearable. Pair of stilettos, length or wideness of the pants, materials or details (think of satin lapels on Balmain suits); they are all put up to improve gentle side of men's suit.
During the years I've always had an excuse for not wearing tuxedo suit; It's not really Le Smoking couturiered by Yves Saint Laurent and I don't own really starched white blouson. That was my very personal and vivid vision of evening tuxedo suit and glass of champagne in very old school way. Then I caught myself wearing recently harem pants with tuxedo blazer and black skinnies on same blazer and my past theory fell apart.
From what's seen on the runaway and that offered in the shops you can really put up your suit with the different parts to create the tuxedo or smoking style. Sometimes you are for cropped blazer and very wide length trousers. Sometimes you may feel you need stitch into your skinny's pants and long blazer to make a nice tuxedo combination. The way you put it together can make it further than just an evening outfit.
For the daily style or work, formality can be dissolved by bracing long blazer with thin belt like Donna Karan does. Hannah McGibbon with the softness of fabric and color makes very splendid suits(especially See by Chloe formal tuxedo jackets). Zac Posen creates sexy formality by bringing tighter pants and V neck blazers. Phoebe Philo proved once again her designer abilities debuting for Celine resort with tuxedo jackets made of tender, flexible fabric with the collar in different color. More Masculinity can be achieved with strong shoulders and leather pants, and if you are more into the warmer dandy English looks take a peak into the Ralph Lauren collection. Anna Sui for those unfamiliar with any kind of trousers suggest jeans on classic frock jacket.
For the evening wear silk blouse on wide leg tuxedo trousers (Currently hot cropped above the ankle) and have the glass of champagne. Very Katherine Hepburn.
Girls and they various tuxedo solutions

First four photos of Vogue France street style, image of Freja via nymag, Annabelle Dexter Jones and Liya Kebede via zimbio


Grace said...

GREAT post.

Love Grace.

Opé - Style Artist said...

The tuxedo is hauteness and quicjk chic. Lovely post and pix.

What is Reality Anyway? said...

so fun

Dylana Suarez said...

I love the tuxedo looks!



Helen said...

I think a lot of women are scared of looking too formal and business-like when wearing a suit/ tuxedo. A lot of women are also scared of looking androgyous, which is sad, because it's beautiful. I think the photos you chose here establish the fact that a tuxedo on a woman does not equal a manly look, it almost does the opposite and in my opinion it also brings out something interesting in the wearer.
What is sad though is that a good tuxedo-look or even a good androgynous look is expensive. You really need to go for quality when you dress like this. Which I had the possibility to afford a silk blouse and champagne... It's utopia for me, haha.

Nice post though!

Helen said...

Hmmm... "wish", not "which" in the end of my comment. I'm sorry.