28 October 2009

Vest trends for fall and winter

For centuries waistcoat was a part of men's formal attire and usually double breasted to stretch the belly.
Waistcoat or popularly vest (fr gilet) is a part of wardrobe that doesn’t go out of style lately and whoever came up with this trend is fashion friend.
First we started wearing the simple vests and craving those cottoned or suit waistcoats, but soon moved forward to lot of details on our gilets( think of studs)
Vests usually can ˝pimp˝ the plainest outfits. What is more rock'n'royal than a basic black cotton dress with denim vest. And if it is done in DIY manner from a old Levi’s jacket and studs you did real fashion forward.
Runaway collections from those that wear screaming grunge to those ladylike, showed lot loving for the vests. Fur, leather, tuxedo long vests, embroidered, even those leopards were stars of the season. One can certainly add trendy vests to his wardrobe but still not to forget to wear the old ones because the vest is always vest and we really detest throwing away our clothes, especially when it comes to good key pieces. And vest proved for seasons it is.
What to choose, what to add, where to buy, who wears it...
1. Fur vest

If vest was star of the runaways, fur vest was lodestar; from Philip Lim, Vandervost, Lagerfeld, Kane, Mendel, Marni, Lang. Some even said that the fur coat died when fur vest was borne. We wouldn’t go that far because it certainly cannot warm you up like coat but is very trendy and very practical to pair. Very popular is still Mongolian black fur but not less desirable those made of faux fur or the different types of real fur

Erin Wasson and Mary- Kate Olsen wearing fur vests

Elizabeth and James fur vest from netaporter, faux fur from H&M
2. Leather vest
Biker style left impact and brought the certain splendor, which refers on all of the leather items or boots. The leather vest is this year little longer or cropped with layered collar or with the fur. Another superb from motorcycle style, even if you were never punker is kutte (studs, badges and band logos in DIY manner)

Kate Young and Byrdie Bell wearing leather vests

Erin Wasson X RVCA Hard Loser Waistcoat from La Garconne, Alexander Wang Leather motorcycle vest from netaporter
3. Knitted vest
Not that from the runaway, as is the contributor of warm fall and winter look especially for the fans of layered clothing. Lots of patterns, like isle or different knitted versions make knitted vest city to ski chic option. Go for it.

Charlotte Ronson wearing knitted vest, Shop items; Patterned Knit Vest from YESSTYLE,Twenty8Twelve isle pattern waistcoat at mywardrobe,Retro Waistcoat from Wendy Keith Designs
Photos via style.com, nymag.com, elle.com

23 October 2009

Rebirth of tuxedo

For years I used to be very suspicious on the subject of tough power-clothing or man cuts. Especially when you are younger there is some settled society chase for femininity, and you do effort just to avoid tough glance. Luckily for us things have changed. Do you reminisce of pant-less eras on the catwalk few years ago? Designers obviously seemed to forget how we have to go to work and actually wear pants. Except those from who we were expecting trousers like YSL or Lang, there wasn’t really some major buzz about the pants. Bad recession time seems that prompted detailed luxurious clothes, on one side and on the other, the basics. And they did work hard and bring to us all kind of suits including trouser pants for the fall season. And often, jacket or pants are in recognizable tuxedo style. Suit that contains good tailored trousers and blazer jacket still is reverberating powerful clothing but has softness that makes it very wearable. Pair of stilettos, length or wideness of the pants, materials or details (think of satin lapels on Balmain suits); they are all put up to improve gentle side of men's suit.
During the years I've always had an excuse for not wearing tuxedo suit; It's not really Le Smoking couturiered by Yves Saint Laurent and I don't own really starched white blouson. That was my very personal and vivid vision of evening tuxedo suit and glass of champagne in very old school way. Then I caught myself wearing recently harem pants with tuxedo blazer and black skinnies on same blazer and my past theory fell apart.
From what's seen on the runaway and that offered in the shops you can really put up your suit with the different parts to create the tuxedo or smoking style. Sometimes you are for cropped blazer and very wide length trousers. Sometimes you may feel you need stitch into your skinny's pants and long blazer to make a nice tuxedo combination. The way you put it together can make it further than just an evening outfit.
For the daily style or work, formality can be dissolved by bracing long blazer with thin belt like Donna Karan does. Hannah McGibbon with the softness of fabric and color makes very splendid suits(especially See by Chloe formal tuxedo jackets). Zac Posen creates sexy formality by bringing tighter pants and V neck blazers. Phoebe Philo proved once again her designer abilities debuting for Celine resort with tuxedo jackets made of tender, flexible fabric with the collar in different color. More Masculinity can be achieved with strong shoulders and leather pants, and if you are more into the warmer dandy English looks take a peak into the Ralph Lauren collection. Anna Sui for those unfamiliar with any kind of trousers suggest jeans on classic frock jacket.
For the evening wear silk blouse on wide leg tuxedo trousers (Currently hot cropped above the ankle) and have the glass of champagne. Very Katherine Hepburn.
Girls and they various tuxedo solutions



First four photos of Vogue France street style, image of Freja via nymag, Annabelle Dexter Jones and Liya Kebede via zimbio

21 October 2009

True Friendship?

When she came to saint soil of supermodels in 90s as a hardly unknown model, Naomi took young Katherine (16), child of the same town, London, under her wing.
Katie was different and way shorter from the gazelles and started a new heroin chic back in the days, but together they were supermodels. More then 10 years later, Naomi held her back in Cocaine Kate's affair when no one actually stood by her; Kate Moss is my friend ... I think it's like everybody is being bad to her"
Seems that the over the years rumors haven’t destroyed the friendship. Once there was the lesbian affair. Next was YSL replacement of Kate as campaign face by her friend, which Kate handled very professional and aware. Same thing happened when Knight said he prefers to work with Naomi than Kate because she ˝sits less comfortably in society than Kate does˝.
Apparently that statement or fact that Kate Moss had many more covers of Vogue than Naomi couldn’t pull a fight between the girls. This year when Naomi didn’t arrive this at MET, some assumptions were that she didn’t show up because of Kate as co-hostess but Naomi boycott because designer Azzedine Alaia, another friend, wasn’t invited.
After years of common editorial work, or rocking together in Vivienne Westwood heels, girls still hang out and Naomi is always on Kate Topshop openings for support.
They in the way represent what is left from the model syndicalism of 90’s where models used to back up each other.

Naomi: Did you ever feel that I was over-protective? Did I ever nag you?
Kate: You took me under your wing, but occasionally, yes! You did!

08 October 2009

Where to buy…Plaid blazer?

Plaids or checks are very seen on the streets for past few seasons. I am not crazy about mass following of trends and that I felt about long boyfriend blazers. But boyfriend blazer with checks, oh that’s the item I cannot resist. Do you remember Vivienne Westwood Anglomania collection back in 1993 and man's suits made in wool tartan, invented by Vivi herself? Oh those were the real days of punk. Last year many boys around fashion shows and parties mainly in Paris animated me with rocking plaids; on jackets, suits and shirts. RTW was not so passionate about them on outwear except Alta moda pronta in Milan that offered to boys lot of plaids for fall 09, but zero for the girls. So again we are borrowing (irreclaimable this time) from our boys.
We used to think they are too sensitive like outwear because they are already detail for itself. I remember last year how I caused 24h drama with complaining I am too too Kurt Cobain when I bought plaid bomber jacket. But again how can a girl ever be too much Kurt? He is totally important person for our grunge looks.
1. FIRST
Don’t worry about simplicity and find really good plaid blazer (suggesting vintage)Plaids are more than simple.
Misslikey is enormously head over heels for Jean Paul Gaultier plaid blazer from VagabondNyc but her LIKES are also checks in different patterns from topshop and
Smythe Dickens wool-blend jacket from net-a-porter
2. SECOND
Then wear it in a model off duty style on leggings, black stockings with basic dress, in manner of Britt punk, on your favorite jean jeanies for college look, with harem, tweed or wool pants for complete glance a la France. See?! Plaids are beyond practical and give you a very warm fall look.

Who’s that girl

I am sure you did spot her before if you were paying attention on front rows and après parties. She is one of those cool girls that are usually in a party report of those cool mags and with her witty but come–together-outfits she won the hearts of fashionistas over the last years. You must saw the Sophomore Lookbook last year where she modeled along with Cory, Bijou & co for her friend, Chrissie Miller, the designer. If you wear wondering who is the girl that wears perfect red matte lipstick and glossy long brown hair in the manners of indie film star, response is Jen Brill.
Jen is Parson's grad, photography and art agent that works now as Director of New Business Development at Fred & Associates. And she is not one of those hippies hungry for status symbols with rich parents behind her, according to insiders. Brill is a successful business woman that in the same time apparently knows how to wear purple YSL Mary Jane’s and sit in the front row on the Alexander Wang show. Ability to be a bizz and party girl in the same time is the reason why we heart her. Add on that great style and coolness you have a real American edgy style princess. “Everything goes so fast here if you want to be part of it, you have to be one hundred times better than anybody else, otherwise just forget New York, just go live in New Jersey, get married there and have kids”, said Jen for September 08 issue of Jalouse Magazine.

Jen Brill for Vogue China
Though she would manage to earn for living as a model: just take a look at Sophomore book, Vogue editorial or ID-magazine photo shoot. That is what the meaning of the word personality is. At Chanel also spotted that because she is named beauty ambassador of the same, along with Vanessa Traina, Leigh Lezark, Caroline Sieber and Poppy Delavigne. She claimed for few mags she is not fashion addict, but somehow she became inevitable part of the fashion word. Is it because of her boyfriend photographer and according to the rumors her future hubby, famous Terry Richardson, or friends like Chloë Sevigny, Jessica Stam, Genevieve Jones?! That is totally unimportant because Miss Brill earned her status cause whether she is wearing jean shorts and tee on plaid shirt or rocking Chanel or Proenza Schouler, she has style.

photos via style, sartorialist, the FASHION SPOT,Park Avenue Peerage

04 October 2009

collarless, cozy and chic; little fall jacket

Did you pick up already jacket for the beginning of fall? You were thinking of super popular trophy jacket or long boyfriend blazer, shoulder pads frock or some other ultra super popular solution?! I’ve been extra fan of shoulder pads since Marc Jacobs’s rosy dressing vision of New York in 80s or Decarnin’s eternal flirting with masculine details in manner of French chic. And when it is about outwear it is for sure that girl can’t get enough of them, whether blazers, jackets or coats. Last season we slightly slip into fashion of 50s to see how it fells when you move collar from a coat or jacket. This year we were talking fairly enough about Mademoiselle chanel and we reminded of simplicity and liberation she brought for a woman of 30s. And yes, she and Karl took of our attention from a sparkle and glamour of 09’s ˝New Look˝ and reminded us on beautiful simplicity of boxy collarless cardigan jackets. Us and those clothes chains.
Collar in a menswear, as you remember from literature and movies is a symbol of dignity. But same as adjusting the collar can symbolize dignity, collarless jacket can symbolize in-a-minute minimalistic chic. And when the one is cutting your jacket, before it gets out from a fabric, ads a non-sparkly detail on it, like leather or plays with the pattern, makes sure you are cared for all day chic.
Sophomore collarless jacket (on the photo above) has a leather detail as a fake collar and as patch on the elbow. Established in casual rock-ness, Sophomore brought us a perfect little fall jacket for mini black dress and ballet flops. Round neck very kisses nonchalant hair in chignon.
There is something about this round neck that makes jacket very suitable for scarves, layered clothing for didn’t think about it looks we adore. Even makes the disco jacket more relaxed and casual, we saw that from Thakoon.
But certainly I suggest before getting the sparkly, disco or 80’s inspired jacket girl’s gotta take care of her day covering and work chic and get herself a simple jacket in neutral color. Stay tuned for next week and post about blazers where we gonna get a little vent for our eccentricity.

First set; 1. Tibi tweed jacket on mytheresa, 2. Marc Jacobs hand-painted tweed jacket on the Outnet,3. Chloe at outnet, 4. Marc Jacobs on netaporter
Second set; 1. Sally Scott beige jacket, 2.Cropped jacket at Spiegel, 3. Stella McCartney Cashmere jacket(black on farfetch) from netaporter , 4.Marc Jacobs jacket