fall to couture

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To please never satisfied critics, brand’s clients and to maintain the vision of the brand that couture supports, all at the same time, it’s not an easy task at all. Considering that most of members of Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture are also creators of ready to wear, and some of the resort or capsule collections, it’s not an easy job to satisfy themselves, at the end. Dissatisfaction can be a very good drive, but everyone with creative job understands a complexness of creativity especially when deadlines and pressures are in the game. Week of Haute Couture that has always been fashion’s great carrousel of excitement brings also the great errand that your ride has to be the one that will create fireworks of thrill. The one that is familiar with creation of excite is Herr Karl, just like Mademoiselle Chanel in her time was. Lavish ensembles are usually spiced up with iconic models plus the model of the moment, which is currently Lindsey Wixson. Started with pretty seriousness, and all the functional ways of tweed, he spreads the word of immortality of classical Chanel. Unlike the others, he doesn’t have to search inspiration out there, when he has loads of it in his own garden. His remakes of classical Chanel pieces will never become boring. And he won’t ever be afraid to show them in modern way. Accessorized with 1940s snoods, scarves tied in pussy bow and sparkly hosiery, his clothes always have the story to tell. Different from they work they are doing for Valentino house last few seasons, were couture ideas of Chiuri and Piccoli that diminished previous age of innocence. Between aesthetic blue gowns they explored the history of Garavani’s work, but also went to time of brocade.  They filled our eyes also with lavish red and sparkly outfits that were extravagant in every detail, from velvet appliqués to fur inserts. Always interesting Alexis Mabille had a great affair with caftan and made all the shiny gowns for all magic workers and small creatures that unnoticeably surround us. With extravagance of couture, somehow you start to believe that there’s a thin line between beauty and ugliness. So is it hard to create feelings of excitement in little children of fashion again and again? Certainly it is. And with all the complexity of cultural and social changes in creating of a mode today, it takes more than just clothes to experience that fervent and obsessive side of fashion show.

PHOTOS VOGUE.IT, HARPER'S BAZAAR 

Haute Couture spring 2012

Even if you are not Wall Street Journal devoted reader, most of us became familiar over past years with global economic situation more than ever. In a world that suffers a terrible crisis it’s very hard to believe that someone has hundred thousand or million of something for a dress. Apparently some have. Despite of the crisis there is notable increase in couture sale lately. What happens in Paris twice a year for common folk is a dream, art, air of inspiration or at least we think it should be. For those who are buying, unless they organize private fittings or shows, it’s another shopping tour. So, as common sense tells, it would be naive to think that couture is happening for the common folk as you and me. Or that couture is a part of private dream of designer that shares his expression with you and me. It’s a market thing that most of us, the observers can hardly understand. So is it a vision or a dream what we saw in Paris for the spring? What causes our admiration? When looking at most of the couture designs, do you question yourself how did those involved in making of haute couture applied all those details because it seems that there’s no thread and these are glued with invisible something. You have to ask that every time when you look at Chanel couture. This spring Karl’s stewardesses have the uniforms with for example pouf sleeves that are standing in pouf despite the weight of the beads or sequins. Instead of the woolen caps, the girls have feathers in the hair and are decorated with camellia-shaped brooches. The Karl’s punk private jet has a color of sky. Another collection connected with sky or better to say heavenly creatures was that of Valentino. Valentino Victoriana was really divine. Long dresses that remind of walking costumes from the past, look like they are made for lovely models with a soft hair that are running through the grass on the idyllic countryside for some Lula Mag editorial. On the hands they have mesh gloves with lace appliqués and with just one look at the sky they are happy for the life. Romantic silhouettes, high neck ruffled collars, organza bows, sweet cutouts, finest lace, floral prints….what else we need for the carefree and a sweet life?

PHOTOS VIA VOGUE.IT, VOGUE.COM

Karl and Couture

In this superficial surrounding of what we call our world, very often we judge text by headline, thing by appearance, person by look, book by cover. So our little minds sometimes are seriously surprised how things can change in the opposite way. But when the cover is Chanel one, we are never concerned about content, because Chanel prose never fails to impress us. Karl Lagerfeld somehow knows what he is doing to enrich its contents, no matter if it is ready to wear or haute couture. If nothing, at least he has an exceptional power to make regular person even if cannot afford awfully pricey clothes made to measure, happy. So just looking sometimes at bonny images can make a girl delighted about upcoming season and more rays of sunshine. That light in summer and spring days would reflect on Chanel clothes divinely. In those times, some lady will be truly lucky cause with few spare pennies she might become Sirona, the star goddess. To others remains inspiration and peek into this shimmering world filled with fluid fabrics. And the color of that world can be without hesitation named a pastel dream. Less like Popsicle, more like pensive reflection of vintage illustrated advert from some old vogue from beginning of the last century that lays somewhere hidden. If the color reminds you on that, that truly is not just the pure coincidence: he tried really to evoke that. Furthermore his intention was to bring, or better to say make some kind of fusion between Marie Laurencin’s expression of Paris in early years of twentieth century and today’s modern silhouette. Karl points out that shape and attitude is strictly for today. So faded colors of Marie paintings as pastel pink, mauve blue, grey and black, found a perfect ally in delightful fabrics and cuts. Karl enlivened the years of Lurencin work when she was a close friend of Nicole Groult, sister of fashion visionary Poiret, in a magical way. Some people just know how to be masters in connecting contemporary and tradition, without disgracing the original moment.

Mood of dreamy colors that was closed by Kristen McMenamy as the bride was opened with bit rigid silhouette, coat that has trapeze cut and short-sleeved dress that is boxy. Like a sculptor he transparently and slowly changes shape. That’s what I like from Karl and people who are working on Chanel shows. There are no breaks. Breaks as I called them are to hate. Continuums are to love. Continuum as the part of changing and development when the skirt becomes casual but the bodice is still bit rigid or when the edges on heavy silk become soft and romantic. And when everything becomes floating you get an impression of falling stardust. "Nonchalance in couture is very important. Couture without nonchalance is just drag queen attitude of women of an era past that I hope will never come back", says Karl.

I must admit styling of few outfits with pants and jeans doesn’t actually fit in my idea of tunic and tulle solely over the leg, but Karl says that modern Chanel girl wears trimmed jacket with jeans. And on the flats as an eternal flat lover have to agree with him. Karl believes he is tired of seeing all those girls walking in high heels so simple and elegant pointed flats were almost invisible and didn’t distract attention from the clothes. How else we could notice all the details and embroidery provided with high level of workmanship that demands neat hands, lot of patience and knowledge. One of those skilled people with lot of patience is Mdm Pouzieux that waves braided trim on Chanel couture garments. She works alone and is not keen on revealing the secrets of her craft. At the end, do we really need to know everything? Some things are just sacred. So is couture.

Made-at-home haute couture

It’s not easy to a one that has idols among couture princess like Daphne Guinness or Lady Amanda Harlech; Made-to- measure tailoring, except for design is responsible for extravagant price of couture pieces. Process from a sample toile to dreamy gown demands hours and hours of patience , pairs and pairs of natty hands, for every crystal, pearl, ruffle, cutwork or lace trim.
Once created unique garments, mostly impossible to be copied by mass retailers, are proofs of couturier’s workmanship and visions as his creative expression. Still is doubtful and paradox in a way to label couturier as artist if couture serves as part of fashion dream of maison, wrapped in bubble for publicity. Not that nothing is bad with the field of dreams, but is always more appealing in dreaming when in background is passion, not just pure profit wish. Is today’s market and loss in this field leaving enough space for couturiers to be artist? Let’s leave that to couturiers/ designers and their awareness, perception of itself when alone in couture salons. Not that this tailoring is only expensive and impossible for many fashion lovers, it’s also expensive for maisons. Take for example Anne Valerie Hash, an extraordinary French designer that admitted she cannot make couture in the way big couture houses are doing, so for the last collection she came on the idea; concept of vintage couture with famous personalities borrowing her some of the iconic garments which she will reproduce and insert in collection. So charming Hash daringly called designers- celebrities 911 and they actually supported the idea of second hand-couture. Followed by Anne Valerie Hash example, we will find some inspiration for made to-home couture. There’s no need to stalk Albert Elbaz to send his pajama pants or bore Diane Pernet to take off one of her veils; surely you have some devoted to-garments that can be worn in a different way and enhance your wardrobe with couture-esque charm . You can even call it a DIY if you want.



1. Shoulder straps from other fabric; Anne Valerie Hash jumpsuit
In your fashionista career you must had a period of collecting scarfs. Scarf, ribbon or everything satin and soft with knotting can always easily become your strap, neckline or bow on the back attached on shoulder straps.

2. Silhouette playing in a big style; Christophe Josse white gown with sheer top made of point d’esprite tulle and as contrast rich bottom in A-line made of fringed chiffon.
If you have long skirts or tulle, tutu skirts that you don’t often wear, go play with the bottom/top; If bottom is pompous make top really simple (a tee, casual jersey tank top and vice-versa)

3. Ribbon tie at neck; Christophe Josse tutu style dress
Usually high street simple dresses have two little strips inside for hanger; by reversing dress on the opposite side (back becomes front) on those little strips tie the silk ones and tie them again at the neck to make a little cut-out on the neckline. Pretty luxurious, don’t you think?!

4. Like a princess; Alexis Mabille black dress with yellow bows stitched to the neckline.
Bateau neckline on the dress sometimes make the unthankful silhouette especially if it’s a mini dress. if you’re not on personal with bateau and in some period of your fashion life you bought dress with that cut get somewhere fabric bows, roses or some kind of other embellishment and stitch it on the neckline.



1. Shorts as couture; Givenchy Couture outfit; trouser shorts with fuzzy top
Shorts are usually channeling the rock or edgy style or 50s sweethearts with blouses and romantic tops. So it’s quite unusual to see them again in the new role of couture. Why Tisci inspirited us with this? No matter would fuzzy jumper be substituted with fur shawl nonchalantly thrown over white tee, or with some pretty extravagant top it would look absolutely sheen

2. Cardigan Jacket with 50’s chiffon scarf; Chanel Couture
If you don’t have classic Chanel Jacket and have a cardigan in some pastel color you can make a little look-a-like chanel wearing it on some light, fragile dress you have. For couture-esque charm end tuck little chiffon (tulle) scarf into the cardigan and make a charming ruff.

3. Unique piece of headwear on everyday clothes; Chanel couture headwear
This year Chanel accessory pieces enchanted me both on runaway and on the models before fitting in the backstage, where they with everyday clothe were channeling 2010 version of Breakfast at Tiffany’s.
If you are not able to purchase Chanel couture headwear, Chanel accessories designer Laetitia Crahay, creates equally superb headwear as creative director in Maison Michel, available around the world. Or order one with super-unique glance from misslikey’s darling headwear designer Lara Vincent that has already won our hearts.

Week of Haute Couture

Yesterday, in Paris started spring Haute Couture season. This presentation of made-to-measure pieces was opened with show of couturier Josephus Thimister, guest member of Chambre syndicale de la haute couture who's absent from fashion scene for years (in 90s was artistic director at Balenciaga). Anti-war collection entitled "Bloodshed and Opulence", designer response and empathy with yet unhealed spirit of European people, broken with separation of Europe caused by World Wars, during and after era of communism, proved once again that "fashion is all about responsibility" is not just a theory.





This case, which is obvious critique on political leadership and ideologies is good example of emergency of criticism (not that are most ethical things happening in policy of fashion corporations these days). What really happens is that we, whether industry consumers or protagonists usually neglect ethical or moral behavior of those who are selling us clothes. So, it is an extraordinary thing, when ideas of garb creators that usually in capitalistic way spread around the world through copy-cat retailers, are our reminder, alarm. We certainly need more of awareness and wisdom in future expressions without fear of misunderstand. That's the reason I am sending first "superb" to Thimister. In his vision, though cigarette white pants are sprayed with fake blood , the cut of red satin blazer shows unmistakable tailoring abilities. White-red-olive composition is assembled by floor-length skirts, pants, cocktail dresses,capes, military jumpsuits, while military(rescue) blankets are used as layer over silver and gold ball gowns.






In the next three days of couture due to a names involved we hope to see sea of flamboyant, inspirational pieces and faits du art, .
Today, on the second day were presenting Alexis Mabille, Christopher Josse, Anne Valerie Hash, Christan Dior, Adeline André, Armani Privé shows
Tomorrow, on Tuesday 26 are showing Chanel, Stephane Rolland, Maurizio Galante, Atelier Gustavc Lins, Dominique Sirop, Givenchy
Wednesday, January 27 on schedule are On Aura Tout Vu, Franck Sorbier, Elie Saab, Jean Paul Gaultier, Lefranc.Ferrant, Maison Rabih Kayrouz, Valentino shows.
Season ends on Thursday, 28 with Haute Joaillerie including Boucheron, Chanel Joaillerie, Chaumet, Mellerio Dits Meller and Van Cleef & Arpels.

photos via vogue.au

On Aura Tout Vu

With the name that in French means you think you’ve seen it all seems that On Aura Tout Vu used good old fashion lawn of nonentity of enough and unveiled what they have to show. Approximately fifteen-year-old French fashion house was first creator- provider of garments for couture and ready to wear houses on relation Givenchy-Galliano and few others, before they started creating their own collections as also collaborations (including Chopard). They debuted with haute couture shows in 2002, as invited members of Federation francaise de la couture. Apart from couture,rest of collections are not any less haute; ready to wear, accessories (my left wrist is absolutely crying for their bracelets) and various lines of products such as for home, offices to high-tech goodies. If they thought of geeks obsessed with jewels on their computer boo-boos in very out of the ordinary way, with things like smoker accessory they enchanted and in the same time made regular smoker as me sad, because their bejeweled cigarette box makes pack of my fav smokes so ashamed that even I cannot look at them anymore. I won’t mention my ashtray and what On aura tout vu did to it (not that we are promoting smoking here on misslikey- bad, very very bad thing)

When you see all this kind of goodies under the same name, you become suspicious about it- that is chronic after-after effect of all those infant prodigies characterized by volume of avocations in the same line(don’t expect I am mean and don’t think of relationship LiLo-Ungaro)
Questioning about it? Of course you do- how is possible-where are they getting ideas-how many designers these people have, and you close it with very very strange! Realized that in fact is not so bizarre, when I dig a bit- Maison is trinity of people with background in jewelry, graphic design and fashion. Impact of those versatile contributions is very visible in their designs. Every time you see this kind of synergy in a world of fashion, you have to recognize something excellent is coming out of it. Synergists pay very attention on details, which is sometimes elementary key to everything.
And On aura tout vu surely has a very developed sense for detailing, fabrics as products. Seams that except great creativity and ideas, everything is planned very well, so even foliage attached on the gown, is thickened in translucent material like foil.
Foret enchante, last collection, part of Paris Couture Accessories was celebration of nature, very vision of romantic, happy magical garden with all the elements of same; trees(attached to dresses, as bang handles, brushwood around models hands), feathers and bird songs as background melody. If it is display of secret world that popped out from pages of old fairy-tale, models are not the little flying beards, they are delightful dryads.
What I felt from On Aura Tout Vu except proper tailoring and sense for society is great dose of alternative, big independence in design which is hard to have in fashion maison nowadays, with lot of freedom in artistic creation, everything sprinkled with magic dust.
On aura tout vu, as they tattled on their web (which won my award for best internet along with Hermès), certainly loves to distort fashion and glam. And yes we haven’t seen it all until we saw On aura tout vu.


photos via; Reuters, telegraph, daylife, oatv facebook group

Vision of Art and Couture- Stéphane Rolland

If main characteristic of haute couture is its uniqueness, than Stéphane Rolland as 11th. Member of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, justified his membership.
Stéphane Rolland launched his couture Maison, that has been financially supported by just two shareholders, in 2007. Before love in his own couture, was a creative director at Balenciaga, has launched prêt-a-porter collection, and worked in Jean-Louis Scherrer house on womenswear and couture.
At Palais de la Découverte, this year in July, first time as official couturier Rolland presented 40 Haute creations together with leather goods for fall/winter 2009. What inspires this Parisian couturier mostly is art; contemporary, modern, architecture or sculpture, and that really is big influence on his designs. Inspiration for graphic mosaic embroidery from this show came from the wall of one New York apartment. Silhouettes of Rolland’s dresses really look like sculptures enliven that had un-notable walked out from some museum retrospective to runaway.
Except mosaic embroidery sign of last collection were rounded, sometimes bit asymmetrical cutouts (enchanted especially with cutouts on the back). Through whole collection, Stéphane plays with openness of the woman’s body parts.
Train dress is rich and despite big shoulders with bateau neckline, on the back will have little cutout that balances with silhouette. If it’s one sleeved, that sleeve will be pleated and bit avant-garde. He put sheer details on the back on long velvet dress with power shoulders and mosaic details all over. Long tailored blazer with details on the shoulders is paired on the runway with long dress and I can clearly imagine high class socialite on art exhibition in front of Monet's painting. Stéphane made me to fall in love with his long -floor touching-dresses and with one of those, in white, he closed his show, while other models in black dresses where aligned on stairs of Palace. That image clearly portrays Rolland’s art obsession.
Maybe the idea of timeless is reason of lots of diamonds embroidered in fabrics like cashmere, beige camel, gazar, crepe and jersey.
He also showed bags which varied from day bags to evening clutches (22-karat gold metalwork and diamond-encrusted closures) with prices from €10,000 and higher, depending on client specifications. And we say yes to Rolland same as we said yes when we saw Rihanna in Rolland’s ivory satin mermaid gown at Glamour’s woman of the year.

images via LE FIGARO
Since there's not enough reporting about Haute Couture, from now on, every week on misslikey will be published post regarding Couture

misslikey's princess

Did you think you are a princess when you were a little girl? I remember I used to pull my grandma curtains throught her house and pose in front of mirror with crystaled headband . Instead of dressing up the dolls, I used to dress up myself. I wanted to be all grown up and a princess; similar to Karl Lagerfled. And talking about His Heighness he totally enchanté us with chiffon dresses in his pretaporter summer collection.
This summer designers showed us lot of sheer and ruffles..and what kisses more ruffles than fine made fabric like chiffon. In pastel it's diviness. Though I was disappointed of not seeing baby blue or pastel blue in couture collections. So if you ever thought you are adopted and you belong to royal family you don't have to talk about that story with your terapeist anymore. Because those who we call the big ones are also dreaming about princesses and fairies.


Chanel Printemps-Eté 2009 Prêt à porter

Elie Saab couture summer show was a real fashion candy for eyes. Very wearable and very safe red carpet choice for celebs.

is givenchy princess a princess or feminine fairy?

Fall Disco Princess from Monique Lhuillier

p.s we are looking forward to see who is gonna be this year's Met princess.
p.i.s.s. If you are lucky and you will RSVP please leave 80's behind for this kind of traditional events. Say huge No to Xena, yes to princess. Say yes to couture because we need more couture shows.
This year's Met Gala Benefit will be held May 4. 2009, with Honorary Chair Marc Jacobs and Co-Chairs Kate Moss, Justin Timberlake, and Anna Wintour.
photos via nymag